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Healthy Living > Bordeaux 101
Bordeaux- the word can either incite delight or anxiety,
depending on the level of one’s wine expertise.
For those not familiar, Bordeaux (pronounced BOHR-DOH) is a
very old wine region on France’s eastern coast, about 1 hour’s drive north of
Cognac and about 4 hours from Paris. Bordeaux is dominated by the Gironde
estuary, the coastal bight that marks the confluence of the Garonne River and
the Dordogne River with the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Topographically, two viticulturally
important areas dominate the land: The Médoc (pronounced MAY-DOK)
peninsula and the lands across the estuary from the Médoc. These two areas are
often referred to as the Left Bank (Médoc) and the Right Bank (everything
across the estuary). Surprisingly, Bordeaux owes its wines’ characters to the
art of the blend. Virtually ALL of Bordeaux’ wines are
blends, either dominant in Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. Why? Well, the
northern climate (the same latitude as Vancouver, BC, Canada) of Bordeaux is
surprisingly mild. Thanks to the warm waters of the Gulf Stream, sun-loving
varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon ripen well here while earlier-flowering
varietals such as Merlot escape the risk of frost most years. In Bordeaux,
there are five main varietals grown, each contributing a particular character
or influence in a wine. Cabernet Sauvignon is structure and power; if wines
were like houses, Cab would be the foundation and framing of the structure.
Merlot lends grace and softness (drywall and landscaping). Lesser-known, but
equally important varietals Cabernet Franc (Roof and stairs), Malbec (paint,
wallpaper and carpet) and Petit Verdot (furniture) although used in tiny
amounts, are tremendously important adding complexity and subtlety to the
palate and nose.
The
estuary is more than just a barrier between two lands. Stylistically, the two
areas have two distinctly different styles. The Médoc is the realm of the Great
Wines of Bordeaux, with the communes (townships) of Margaux (Mahr-GOH),
Pauillac (POY-ack), Saint-Julien (San Jhoo-lee-enn), Saint-Estephe (AY-steff)
being the homes of legendary – and extremely expensive – Chateaux as Latour,
Margaux, Lafite, Mouton-Rothschild, and Léoville-Las-Cases. These wines can
easily fetch onto the hundreds of US dollars per bottle in a good (or even
not-so-good) vintage. The wines produced on the Médoc are essentially all
blends dominant in Cabernet Sauvignon.
Aside from the Great Communes mentioned, the Médoc is divided into two
section of very pleasant, well-priced wines that share the charms of these
greater wines. The Haut Médoc and the Bas Médoc – literally the Upper Médoc and
the Lower Médoc. The Bas Médoc is the ocean-most section of the Médoc,
producing wines of incomparable softness and silkiness for the price (usually
under $15.00 US). The Haut-Médoc is the landward swath of the peninsula. With a
warmer, more protected area, yields sturdier, more structured wines of greater
depth and complexity. These two, away from the Great Communes are terrific
deals, especially with several better-than-good recent vintages (1998, 1999,
2000, 2001, 2002…) under their belts.
The
Right Bank, on the other hand, is the land of Merlot-based wines. The communes
of Saint-Emilion (AY-mill-ee-onn) and Pomerol (either POM-er-ol or POHM-roll) are
as inherently different from the wines of the Médoc as men are from women. The
Right Bank, dominated by the wines of Saint Emilion,
has traditionally been overlooked in favour of the Médoc. This is unfortunate,
as some of the best deals in Bordeaux are to be found in this area. This region
is also home to some of the newest, most expensive Bordeaux now produced. Taking
a cue from the wineries of the Napa Valley, the tiny commune of Pomerol is home
to many new and shockingly expensive small labels known collectively as ‘Les
Garagistes", literally, "the garagists" in reference to how many of these
super-luxury labels are being made in garages, for lack of winery space.
Pomerol’s wines are almost entirely made of Merlot, with small amounts of Petit
Verdot and Cabernet Franc lending character and backbone. Saint Emilion’s wines,
on the other hand, can be the most "New World" tasting of the lot, with loads of
Cabernet Franc lending spiciness and character to already complex Merlot from
its chalky soils. Outside of Saint Emilion, the region now known as the
"Montagne Saint Emilion" can offer terrific deals with wines just as stylish as
Saint Emilion’s, but at a fraction of the price. Aside from Saint Emilion and
Pomerol, the Right Bank is home to many other small communes that produce great
bang for the dollar. The vast region known as ‘Entre Deux Mers’ ("between two
seas") separates the rivers Garonne and Dordogne from each other and can produce
wonderful wines for drinking over the next three to five years. Keep an eye out
for labels reading ‘Entre-Deux-Mers’, ‘Loupiac’, ‘Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux’,
and ‘Cotes de Castillon’ for these Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wines. Other
"Don’t Miss" communes: Lalande-de-Pomerol (Pomerol lite), Cotes de Bourg and
Cotes de Blaye (Rich, potent, and easy-drinking Merlot-Cab Sauv blends), and the
wines of Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac (Merlot-Cabernet Franc with Malbec) shall
easily give great red wine pleasures for a small price tag.
Healthy Living > Bordeaux 101
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